Knitting and handmade products

Knitting - from ancient times to now

When you put on your knitted garment, have you ever wondered how it was made? Well, you'd probably know if it was knitted by your loved one, but it's more likely to be made by a knitting machine and produced in the thousands. Yes, most modern knitwear is machine-made, in large workshops, and is part of what we call "ready-to-wear". And how did it come to be possible to produce various knitted clothes, socks, gloves, hats and many other useful products from ordinary fibers (wool, cotton, and in the last century also synthetic).

Oldest data on knitting

The origin of the art of knitting is still unclear. It is not clear when and how the first knitted item was made. Archaeologists claim that knitting originated in the Middle East and is recognized as one of the most ancient crafts, among spinning and weaving. Ancient knitted garments were made from natural fibers such as cotton, wool and silk. These materials decompose easily, making it even more difficult to track when this activity existed. 

Researchers suggest that the first technique preceding real knitting is the so-called Naalebinding - naalebinding (from Danish - tying with a needle) - a technique that differs from knitting in that it involves passing the entire length of yarn through each stitch, as opposed to crocheting, where the knitting is formed by stitches alone. The oldest known textile fragment created through Naalebinding and dating to around 6500 BCE, was discovered in Nahal Hemar Cave, Israel. The technique was also practiced by the Coptic Christians in Egypt in the XNUMXth century. A pair of roughly shaped Coptic socks were found that fit the foot and were comfortable to wear with sandals. 

Coptic socks knitted with Naalelbinding (Photo Wikipedia)

This technique is still practiced by tribes of the Camisea region of Peru. They use it to make bracelets. Naalebinding is also popular in the Scandinavian countries and the Balkans.

Genuine knitted socks have been found in Egypt, dating to around 1000-1400 CE. The use of white and indigo-dyed cotton, the intricacy of the design strongly indicate that this was not the first knitted item produced.

Real knitted socks from Egypt (Photo by Blue Ant Media)

Distribution in Europe

From the Arabs, the art of knitting was brought to Spain. Among the earliest knitted masterpieces are two Arab knitted silk pillows found in the royal tombs of a monastery in northern Spain, dated to the 11th century, and several paintings from the XNUMXth to XNUMXth centuries depict the Virgin Mary knitting. 

The Knitting Madonna (dated 1400 – 1410). Author - Bertram of Minden, 1345 – 1415 (Hamburger Kunsthalle Collection, photo Wikipedia)

In the 14th century, this activity eventually reached the rest of Europe and became one of the works of highly skilled craftsmen. Many distinctive styles of knitting emerged in the British Isles. The purl stocking method was invented in the XNUMXth century by English knitters. King Henry VIII was the first British royal to wear knitted socks. This can be compared to wearing jeans today, creating a sleek, modern look. Due to the high demand for this item, Queen Elizabeth I, the daughter of King Henry VIII, encouraged the formation of knitting guilds. She also used knitted silk stockings and ornate knitted sleeves for her dresses during her reign.

Interesting knitting styles

Gansey style

A famous British style is the knitting of sailor and fisherman sweaters, called Gansey (Gansy). The style is thought to have been developed by knitters along the coast of England. Characteristic of the style is that the garments are knitted in the round, without stitches, using straight needles and fine woolen worsted yarn. Wool clothes retain warmth when wet, and the use of small diameter needles creates a stretchy fabric that has the ability to keep water out for some time. Usually only one color is used, and different patterns and shapes are obtained by skillful manipulation of the loops. One of the most important features of Gansey the style is the diamond gusset under the sleeve. This allows free use of the hands when pulling nets and ropes and makes the garment much more durable as the tension between the body and the sleeves is released. Another important and practical feature is that the sleeves are knitted by gathering stitches from the curve to the cuff. This means that the points that wear out the fastest (elbow and cuff edge) can be easily unraveled and re-knitted, thus preserving the rest of the garment for years.

Gansey Fisherman's Sweater (Photo by Maritime Heritage East UK)

Fair Isle style

Another distinctive style in the UK is the knitting method Fair isle (Fair Isle), which is supposed to have appeared on the island of the same name, part of the Shetland Islands in northern Scotland. The legendary technique of knitting sweaters from threads of different colors probably spread when, after the defeat of the Spanish Armada, Admiral Juan Gómez De Medina, commanding the ship "El Gran Grifon" fled north in 1588. On August 17 (according to other data on September 27) of the same year, De Medina's ship was wrecked on the rocks of Fair Isle. The captain and sailors wintered in the Shetland Islands, and there they taught the islanders the art of knitting.

Sweater in Fair isle style

Development and modernity

Mechanization of knitting

The world of knitting is evolving and expanding. In 1589, the world's first knitting machine was invented by the Englishman William Lee. He created the so-called "sock frame", the first device that mimics the hand movements of a knitter. It has 8 needles per inch and produces a coarse fabric. Lee later improved the mechanism with 20 needles per inch and was able to knit silk and wool socks. Gradually, crocheting became a profitable industry. Interestingly, initially the knitters were only men and the employer could be fined for using female labor…

The first knitting machine (the "stocking frame") invented by the British William Lee

Modernity

Gradually, knits are entering fashion. In the 20s, knits played the role of a fashion statement, for both men and women of all ages. Synthetic yarns and fibers, which appeared in the 50s, made it easier for knitters, and gradually knitted goods became ready-made.

And that's when the renaissance and rise of hand knitting began. As a hobby or profession, hand knitting is perceived as a high level of design and fashion. Proof of this is the hand knits, included in many fashion collections, as well as produced by famous designers, whose opinions about hand knitting we will present in the next post. As part of this trend, we at Lucky Art offer modern and striking hand knits suitable for women, men and children of all ages and for all seasons.